Answer: There are a lot of variables that determine the size lift kit you need. These include year and model of car, tire diameter, tire width, rim offset (the amount the rim sticks out), etc. The only way to be 100% sure is to measure. You'll want to find out the size of the wheels outside diameter and measure how much your car needs to be lifted in order for the wheels not to rub. Your local custom shop or custom wheel outlet may do this for you. Also see measuring video or recommended lift charts for no cut, no rub.
Answer: We tend to see a need for a 3 to 5 inch lift to clear 22's on most cars. For 24's, you may need up to a 13" lift to clear with no cutting and a full turning radius. For 26's and larger you almost always need a minimum 13" kit. Smaller lifts may clear the wheels with minor amounts of fender trimming but you will not have full turning radius.
Answer: Extended arms are not required with our lifts. A lot of vehicles have been lifted without them. We do recommend them for the front because when you lift a vehicle the tire tends to tilt inwards causing negative camber. Over a long period of time the inside of your tire will wear out faster than the outside. For the rear we recommend them with a 5 inch or larger lift to keep the wheel centered perfectly in the wheel well.
Answer: All of our products come with detailed installation manuals with diagrams. Most people who have some experience working on cars can handle installation. The lift cups can be a little tricky to get in sometimes and we
include a DVD to show you the proper technique to do this. If you do not feel comfortable installing the parts you can usually have a local mechanic or custom shop do it for you. Rates for installation usually range from $150-800 depending on what is all involved.
Answer: We do not recommend using air shocks for lift. Shocks are NOT designed to support the weight of a vehicle. We do recommend them if you plan on hauling a heavy load of passengers in the back of the car once in a while for a little additional support.
Answer: The majority of the big wheels on the market do not have the proper offset (amount the rim "sticks out") for use on a car. If your rims stick in too far they can rub on the frame and inside suspension components. We recommend verifying you have the correct offset needed BEFORE ordering your wheels. If you have the incorrect offset wheels you can use wheel spacers to get the rims to stick out farther. Wheel spacers ARE NOT part of a lift kit- if you order your wheels in the correct offset you will not need them. Please note- specific parts have a minimum offset required in order to use the part. Please read the item description carefully to make sure your rims will clear the suspension parts.
Answer: The only kits we guarantee to clear with no cutting are our 13" to 17" complete kits. If you do not purchase one of these kits we DO NOT guarantee wheel fitment- please measure to make sure you have enough lift.
Answer: Be sure you have the correct bushing part numbers. If you do, refer to the video tutorial to find out how to press in your bushings correctly. We have pressed in thousands of these bushings and it can easily be done with the proper technique.
Answer: A sawzall, plasma torch, flame torch, band saw, or chop saw should do the trick. If you do not have access to one of these visit your local muffler shop and they should be able to cut them down for you for a couple of bucks. We sell all of our kits with universal lift cups- they almost always have to be cut down to length. Different years, engine combinations, spring conditions, etc means you have a different size cup in every application. You must trim your cup to the correct length in order to get the advertised amount of lift.
Answer: The S-10 spindle is 1 1/2" shorter than the factory caprice spindle. Our arms are not designed to drop this low (see "wheel flop"). The S-10 3" lift spindle mod on a Caprice is a waste of money in our opinion- the spindle is 1 1/2" shorter than the stock Caprice spindle so you really are only going to get another inch or so of lift using it. Check out our 13" to 17" Complete Kits to do it right.
Answer: First make sure your upper arm is not bottomed out against your frame. If your suspension is toped out try trimming out 1 inch from the bottom of your cup. We also recommend installing our lift shocks that are set up for proper dampening and length on a lifted suspension.
Answer: If less than 1" of your drive shaft remains in the transmission you will need to get a longer drive shaft or lengthen your stock one. You can have your local drive line shop lengthen your stocker or purchase a new one from us. Please see how to measure for an extended drive shaft.